How to make a prop portal gun

how to make a prop portal gun

Building a 1:1 Scale Portal Gun With Lights

How to Make a Portal Gun. Step 1: Materials. Blue insulation foam for the main shells of the gun. Glue! lots of glue ranging from two part epoxie Step 2: Tools.. Step 3: Shaping the Two Shells.. Then roughly cut out the side profile then the top. Then use a belt sander to bring the Step 4. Jun 20, Awe-Inspiring Videos Subscribe! COMPANION CUBE TO GET INTO SPACE

This is how i made my portal gun for halloween Ive entered this to the Hurricane Lasers Contest, if you like it enough could you please vote for me at the top of this page. Thank you in advance. Blue insulation foam for the main shells of the gun. Then roughly cut out the side profile then the top. Then use a belt sander to bring the blue foam closer to the shape of the back and front shell.

Question 2 months ago. This post was selected by Instructables staff for ThrowbackThursday on our social media channels! Thanks for the tutorial! Im not sure what your switch and LEDs are encased in but mine are just stand alone. Reply 4 years ago. I carved the what are your aspirations interview questions foam with a hacksaw bladecraft knives and sand paper.

I glued three layers of foam together, like is stated in the steps about the shell. Theres not much more I can tell you other than the steps that are in the instructable. I really like your project, and i want to try it, can i ask you the density of the foam that you used in that project? I don't think I could create one in any short amount of time that I would have the patience for.

Reply 5 years ago. I don't know, I have no idea how patient you are or how fast you build. You could Defoe make one relatively quick if you find a faster way to build the shells they were the most time consuming thing. Where do you get the PVC pipes :o?!

Thank you for this instruction ;! Introduction: How to Make a Portal Gun. By backwards lamb backwards props Follow. More by the author:. About: Im a model maker who makes film and game props in my spare time. If you like my work please visit my blog it has more work. Did you how to repair bow string serving this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Cardboard Horn Amplifier. Kid Name Circle Board by julien.

Reply Upvote. I thought it was real for a sec. Answer Upvote. Psiborg 4 years ago. LenS12 4 years ago. Aarav 4 years ago. I'm not sure what you want? This whole post is how I made it in detail I carved the insulation foam with a hacksaw bladecraft knives and sand paper.

ArachnoKing 4 years ago. Willisuper25 5 years ago. And no I don't sell them. GLaD0SA 5 years ago. Where did you get the claw things on the front? I was also wondering if you sell these. HimbeerT 5 years ago.

Step 1: Ingredients!

Jun 19, Build Your Own Aperture Science Portal Gun Step 1: Ingredients!. We bought and used a lot of things to make this project, and it was worth it all. About a Step 2: Gotta Have Tools!. Feasibly, this can be made with few tools, but at the very least you must have a Dremel. This Step 3. Jul 13, Follow along on my blog post for more pics and information Friend me on Facebook! Jun 21, I make my most requested prop- The Aperture Science Handheld Portal foam of course. PATTERNS: US Legal Paper size (" x 14")

We bought and used a lot of things to make this project, and it was worth it all. Spraypaint: flat black, pure white, and clear coat gloss.

Feasibly, this can be made with few tools, but at the very least you must have a Dremel. This tool has been our saving grace and go-to weapon for carving, shaping, cutting, smoothing, edging, and pretty much everything else. Ours is actually over a decade old, but still met our needs wonderfully! What we actually ended up using: Dremel Band saw Scroll saw jigsaw Belt sander Spindle sander Drill press Most of these tools were only used once or twice during construction -- the ones we actually really ended up using were the Dremel, the drill press, and the scroll saw.

The band saw was used to cut the PVC for the core, the spindle sander was used to clean the inside of the PVC after it was cut, and the belt sander was used to finish the barrel and do random cleanup every now and then. Overall though, it wasn't used much. Every project that you complete, especially one of this magnitude, requires having a mascot who will faithfully join you in sadness or glee.

Whether bird, hamster, small child, or dog, a Project Mascot is an incredibly important asset in maintaining sanity. Ours was a giant golden retriever named Doctor, who watched our progress through the days lying quietly on the floor of the shop.

Edit: As of early , Doctor the Mascot unfortunately passed away due to heart complications and old age. He is sorely missed. This will be your everything for this project. Rule of thumb seems to be increase the length of the gun by about an inch for every six inches of height and it should, theoretically, stay in scale. TL;DR: very few pics exist of the beginning. Whatever you have on hand, really. Cut about 8 inches of pipe of both sizes for the first part of the core. That gives us a nice section out of the pipe, right?

The pictures help, I swear! In the second one, you'll see that both pipes have the same midpoint -- that's because these are pictures of the first core, which was eventually destroyed. We ended up moving the cut line on the outer shell down a half inch and resanding the curve to get what you see in the first picture. We used thick cardboard. With the difference of the locations of the cuts you did earlier, this will provide the nice sloping effect we see on the front of the ASHPD.

The substance: Bondo. How much of it? A lot of it. Bondo is a curious, curious substance. Naturally a light gray, when mixed with the hardening compound, it turns a pinkish red, hardens completely in about 20 minutes, and is easily sandable with 80 grit sandpaper.

This makes it fantabulous for propmaking. It will start to harden much faster than you think it will you have about 5 minutes of actual work time with it before it starts and it's useless for application as soon as it starts to gel.

You can sand it with 80 grit sandpaper for mass removal, then for finer removal. The last picture is the first core right after we were done -- if your bondo is this color, you don't have enough hardener in it. Actually, we put so little hardener in that it didn't even really count. We eventually had to scrap it and build another. Still with us? This is probably the easiest part to fabricate out of the entire gun. Take a look at the pictures to see what I mean. I promise.

For that part, anyway. This is where the light comes from in the body of the gun when you turn it on. Eventually we actually found a bottle in our own kitchen a coffee flavoring syrup under the name DaVinci.

Taking off the label cleanly proved to be a challenge all on its own, and it also proved to have a unique answer. If you go the bottle route, get the label off as well as you can by hand, then slather the sticky remnants in peanut butter. Leave it for a few minutes, then wipe it off the sticky stuff will come off with just a little extra scrubbing.

Cool, no? Use it for the plunger rod too if you're having problems with the label. The end pieces of the assembly are cut out of acrylic on the jigsaw and smoothed with the dremel, with acrylic polygons cut the same way. There are 8 polygons per plate, with one plate at each end of the cylinder. I apologize in advance if you get lost in this section I lost myself several times while actually building the thing. I have no background in the math or theory behind electrical circuits, so most of my work in this section is somewhat-educated guesswork.

Thus, my explanation, by default, will suck. Power comes from a modified four AA battery holder it now has a wire stretched across one of the battery holders that now holds three AAs, coming up to 4.

The positive wire goes to the first switch, which then goes to the color switch. This is where the mess starts. The positive power routes to the middle pole on the color switch. Blue is the left pole, and orange is the right. The lights are 5mm LEDs from superbrightleds. CAT5 cable is basically four ordered pairs of cables inside a sleeve. Rip open the sleeve and you can pull out eight cables, each pair is neatly wrapped together and ready to use! I used blue and white for each section of blue lights blue for positive and white for negative and, predictably, orange and white for the orange lights.

There are four sections of lights. The barrel lights are arranged in an alternating circle of 6 of each color for a total of 12 lights. There are basically four rings of wire: orange positive, orange negative, blue positive, and blue negative.

I wired the orange LED rings completely before I started on the blue ones and layered the blue rings around the orange ones, then wired one blue pair and one orange pair to the rings and to the color switch and the white wires to the black wire from the battery.

It took about three hours to design and build check out the pictures for more information. That section will go into the middle of the barrel and shine out the front. The next two sets of lights are identical two sets of four LEDs in a square, and two of each color in each square. This means that basically, it gets wired the same way as the larger piece, with one set of colored wires going to each set of LEDs. These wires then go back and get separated so the colored wire goes to the appropriate pole on the color switch and the white wire goes to the black wire from the batteries.

This piece will get routed to the top of the large shell and is the indicator light on the top. EDIT: The electronics control panel and handle was pretty much hacked together at the time with the goal of creating something that worked, but wasn't necessarily pretty. The handle was made out of two random sizes of dowel rod found on the floor of the shop.

The switch in the middle-ish of the plate is the power switch -- I placed it there to make it very easy to turn the gun on, but difficult to turn off. It's actually physically impossible to turn off the gun without shifting your grip first. The second switch controls the color and is activateable by moving your thumb from side to side on the switch. Originally I had a nicely thought out plan of having two plates that screwed into each other so I could make the electronics panel removable so I could access the batteries, but the screws ended up stripping the plastic!

The following was written entirely by Michelle in the third person First of all, for the shells of the gun, we decided to carve green florists foam and then cover it with bondo. This would provide a lightweight base and a hard exterior that we could sand and paint.

After the glue set, it was time to dive in! No joke. It worked marvelously!!! When holding the knife, grasp the back of the knife tip with your free hand and move it along the form forward and backward in a brushing motion to gradually shave off and smooth sections.

Once the shell was carved and covered in bondo, it looked very rough, thick, and crude, but at least it was solid. It is absolutely vital that you remain patient and motivated at the monotonous task. Please believe us when we say: if you think it needs to look smoother, go at it. At it totally.

An important discovery that was make literally the day before we completed the gun was lightweight spackling. If there are too many pockmarks in the shell, the spackling easily fills in cracks and divets and is incredibly easy to sand off! Well, after the shell was to the smoothness we were looking for, the next step was creating the hole in the top, dremeling the groove along the back, and then applying the three triangular knots from where the wires for the red LEDs would be pulled through.

For the hole, we simply used the drill press at hand. We drew out where we wanted the line to be with tape, traced along the lines with pencil, and then dremeled along said line. As long as you have a steady hand, this should be pretty straightforward even though staying inside the lines with a destructive instrument that is spinning at a high velocity is, admittedly, somewhat nerve-wracking!

Now you can proceed with painting! To create an even, all-over white base, we painted Gesso on first. I believe we put on four or five layers of Gesso. If you sand the shell after each coat, it makes it easier to achieve a final smoothness later on.

After the Gesso was dry and sanded, just alternate between using clear-gloss spray-paint and white spray-paint in order to achieve an even, shiny, white coat over the top of it. It was like they were attracted to the spay-paint!

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